2024 Australia - June
Journal Notes
General
This stretch of Queensland pairs two landscapes that lie close together yet could hardly be more different. Inland sits Blackbutt, a small rural town and locality in the South Burnett Region, set on the D’Aguilar Highway roughly 166 km north-west of Brisbane on the inland side of the Great Dividing Range, with the Blackall Range rising behind it. The 2021 census recorded a population of 799 for the locality, so it ranks as a service town for the surrounding farms and forests rather than as a settlement of any size. It is named for the blackbutt, Eucalyptus pilularis, a tall hardwood of the eucalypt family that is prized across south-eastern Australia and that gave the district its original reason for being.
To the east, as the country falls toward the sea, the motif shifts from timber and pasture to sand and tidewater. The coastal setting here is the Pumicestone Passage, a narrow mesotidal estuary around 45 km long running between Bribie Island and the mainland. Its northern end meets Caloundra and its southern end reaches Deception Bay, and eleven creeks feed the waterway from the mainland side. It is a sheltered, two-way tidal channel, deepest and widest at each of its ends, and it forms part of the Moreton Bay Marine Park, protected originally as Pumicestone Passage Marine Park in 1986. Bribie Island itself is a sand island, one of three large sand islands that shelter the northern reaches of Moreton Bay, about 34 km long and up to 8 km across. Its passage side is the calm side, fringed by white sandy beaches, while its ocean side carries only a small surf break, sheltered by Moreton Island beyond.
The two halves answer to very different conditions. Blackbutt is a place of forest and seasonal creeks: small in number, older in profile, and used to looking after its own, with a library, shops and a school serving a wide farming and timber district. It is a quiet, self-contained community, one of those rare settlements where the local economy turns on the land and the seasons rather than on any passing trade. Bribie’s southern end, by contrast, is a chain of settled suburbs such as Bongaree, Bellara, Woorim and Banksia Beach, reached from the mainland by a bridge since 1963, while the north of the island remains national park and plantation. The two read as one region but not as one life: the inland town keeps its distances, while the bayside lives with the tide.
What joins them is setting. Both fall under the same broad south-east Queensland climate, warm and humid in summer, dry and mild in the winter months, and both are watched over by the same range country that curves from the Great Dividing Range toward the sea. The contrast is what makes the pairing interesting, for here a traveller can go from a workaday timber town beneath forested ridges to a shallow, bird-packed estuary in a fairly short run of road. Few loops in the state pack in that much contrast so loosely, and fewer still set it against a backdrop that runs from ridgeline forest to mangrove shore in a single sweep of country.
History
The Blackbutt district lies within the traditional lands of the Wakka Wakka people. European settlement began here in 1842, when the Scott family established Taromeo Station as a pastoral run across the surrounding country. In 1887 the same family ceded land to found the two neighbouring towns of Blackbutt and Benarkin, and farms spread across the cleared flats in the years that followed. The discovery of gold in the area late in the nineteenth century drew more people and helped the young settlement grow.
It was timber that made Blackbutt. The town stands at the centre of a hardwood belt, and the blackbutt and ironbark forests around it were worked hard from the early 1900s. The district’s first sawmill was built by Lars Andersen in 1903, and further milling operations followed quickly, feeding the building trade across south-eastern Queensland. Blackbutt, Benarkin and nearby Yarraman are together known as the Timber Towns, and the Timbertown name lives on in local businesses and sporting teams. The railway line reached the district in 1911, but the station was set back from the town, so it took the name Benarkin instead; the two centres sit about 3.5 km apart and are still spoken of as the twin towns of Blackbutt-Benarkin. The line was closed in the 1980s and its bed now carries the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail through the district.
Education followed the timber. Blackbutt Provisional School opened in 1896 under teacher Rosa Bella Ryan and became Blackbutt State School in 1909, when it moved to its present, larger site in the town. A mid-century clock tower on the main street is now the town’s best-known landmark, and the wide streets and old shopfronts still speak of a place built on hardwood and rail. For a community its size, the town accumulated an unusual amount of civic fabric, much of it a direct result of the wealth the mills brought to the district. And when the mills slowed, the town showed the same stubbornness that had founded it: it kept its sports clubs, its schools and its streets, and in time the old rail route that once hauled away its timber came back as a leisure trail, carrying visitors into the heart of the Timber Towns rather than their goods out of it.
Across on the coast the record is older and marine. Bribie Island was home to the Djindubari people when Matthew Flinders came ashore from the Norfolk in 1799, in an encounter that ended in the skirmish remembered in the name Point Skirmish. James Cook had already sighted the Glass House Mountains from the water in 1770. A mission station was tried on the island in 1890 and abandoned within two years, and oyster stocks that had sustained local people for generations were worked out and their middens robbed for lime. During the Second World War the island was fortified, with Fort Bribie raised from 1939 to cover the Northwest Channel into Moreton Bay and a battery set at Skirmish Point. The island was bridged to the mainland in 1963, and Buckley’s Hole at the southern tip was declared an environmental park in 1992 for the sake of its birds.
Geology
Blackbutt sits on the inland flank of the Great Dividing Range, looking toward the Blackall Range from the country beneath them. The ground is hilly and well wooded, set in the valleys that drain into the Cooyar Creek, a tributary of the Brisbane River that rises toward the Bunya Mountains to the west. The same country carries the blackbutt and ironbark that anchored the timber trade; the well drained, gently rich soils of the hills are exactly what sustained the commercial forests, while the narrow valley floors hold seasonal creeks that often run dry and, in places, a lagoon or waterhole where a channel has been slowed or dammed by fallen timber. Dead trees standing in such waters have become a familiar feature of the cleared pastures.
Toward the coast the geology changes out of all recognition. Bribie Island is built from the same coastal sand found on the mainland, blown into two large, low-lying dunes that run toward the north-west. It is a wholly sandy accumulation, long and narrow, tapering to a spit at its northern point near Caloundra, with a calm lee shore on the passage side and a surf shore facing the ocean. The Pumicestone Passage is best understood as a mesotidal estuary, a two-way tidal channel in which the tide flows in from both ends; around eighty per cent of the water is less than two metres deep, which is why the shoals shift and the channel is so responsive to wind and tidal energy.
That shallow, sheltered water makes for a wide run of habitats packed close together. Intertidal sand and mud flats are bared at low tide, seagrass meadows spread across the shoals, and mangrove forests line the quiet shorelines of both the island and the mainland, their pneumatophores rising from the mud like a forest of small grey pencils. Saltmarsh sits behind the mangroves in places. Dunes, flats, seagrass beds and mangrove fringes together support the dugongs, dolphins and turtles that use the passage and the more than three hundred and fifty species of birds recorded across the island and the channel.
The coast here is young and moving. In January 2022, large waves from ex-Tropical Cyclone Seth cut through the narrow spit near the northern tip of the island and opened a fresh entrance to the passage, shifting the main channel and changing the tidal exchange that drives the waterway. Such breakthroughs are part of a shoreline built of loose sand, where dunes, bars and inlets are always being reshaped by storm, swell and tide. For the townspeople, the practical upshot is that the bar at the passage mouth fills with sand and the water at the northern end becomes more settled, a reminder that this coast has never quite finished taking its shape.
Things to See
Blackbutt is best seen on foot as a working bush town. The main street holds a run of heritage shopfronts and the mid-century clock tower that has become its landmark, and a supermarket storefront sits among the shops that serve the district. The old Hotel Radnor is one of the town’s familiar buildings, and the timber towns wear their history on their faces: wide verandas and corrugated iron on the Queenslander houses, many of them raised high on wooden stumps, stepping down a hillside among neat gardens. Outside the centre, a camp ground set among the trees makes for a quiet night under the eucalypts.
Beyond the town the country opens out. Dry creeks cross the paddocks, and after rain a roadside lagoon gathers water where the pale trunks of drowned trees stand in the still surface, bringing birds and stock to the water’s edge. The Brisbane Valley Rail Trail follows the old railway alignment and is open to walkers, cyclists and horse riders, and the Bunya Mountains and the wider South Burnett lie a short drive away. From the higher side of the district the Blackall Range gives the broadest views over the cleared country.
At the coast, the passage side of Bribie Island is the calm side and the easiest place to reach the water. The quiet beaches of Bongaree and Banksia Beach look across the channel to the mainland, and the wide mud and sand flats exposed at low tide are a feeding ground for birds: pelicans gather in the shallows, waders and plovers work the wet sand, and terns wheel overhead. A boardwalk through the mangroves lets you in among the pneumatophores without leaving the shoreline, while the waterfront park pavilions, the boats drawn up on the flats, the weathered fishing trawlers and the cruisers resting on a sloping bank all belong to this unhurried marine world. When the tide is out, the flats teem with small life and the air is full of calls carried off the mud.
For more birdlife and a gentler lookout, Buckley’s Hole is a haven for feathered life and a calm place to watch the passage. The surf side at Woorim is a different world again, open to the ocean, and the national park across the north of the island is the wildest part of it. A boat is the other way to read the passage: from the water, in a kayak, a small motor vessel or a quiet yacht, the creeks, the sand islands and the mangrove shores of this stretch of the Moreton Bay coast show themselves at their best. Closer to the shoreline, the open sand carries the tracks of shorebirds and the swell of the passage tells the strength of the tide much more honestly than any map. In the warmer months there is a good chance of seeing the dugongs that come into the shoals to feed on the seagrass, or a dolphin following the run of the tide. The mangrove edges shelter small crabs and mud-dwelling life that make the mudflats worth a second, slower look.
References
- www.sunshinecoast.qld.gov.au/environment/rivers-and-coast/pumicestone-passage-catchment
- www.discoverqueensland.com.au/plan-and-book/towns/blackbutt
- www.discoverqueensland.com.au/plan-and-book/towns/bribie-island
- www.sunshinecoast.qld.gov.au
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackbutt,_Queensland
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pumicestone_Channel
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bribie_Island
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Burnett_Region
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eucalyptus_pilularis
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bribie_Island_National_Park
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moreton_Bay_Marine_Park
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackall_Range
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Dividing_Range
- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brisbane_Valley_Rail_Trail