Once again, I slept poorly. Throughout the night, the constant ringing of animal bells echoed around the refuge, and the room was oppressively warm, with no breeze at all. After a rather meager breakfast, I set off once more, immediately climbing a steep slope—steeper than on the previous days.
This stage required a faster pace, as thunderstorms were forecast for later in the day. Unfortunately, from a certain elevation onward, the trail disappeared into dense fog, severely limiting visibility and eliminating any views altogether. Progress required full concentration under these conditions.
On the far side of the mountain, the situation repeated itself. Below a certain altitude, the fog suddenly cleared, and the sun reappeared, this time accompanied by scattered clouds. The anticipated thunderstorm never materialized, and the weather stabilized.
The Grande Traversata delle Alpi is a long-distance hiking route that runs through the remote western Italian Alps, connecting small mountain villages, high passes, and traditional refuges. Unlike more famous alpine trails, the GTA is known for its solitude, demanding elevation changes, and rapidly changing weather conditions. Fog, storms, and long ascents are a regular part of the experience, making careful planning and adaptability essential.
By the end of the day, I reached a hotel just south of Carcoforo, where I was finally able to relax properly. Sitting outside on the terrace with a cup of tea, I enjoyed a rare moment of comfort after another demanding stage on one of Italy’s most authentic and challenging alpine routes.